Does truing a 700 action actually move the needle on accuracy?
**Short answer: it depends on what the action is doing wrong, and what you're shooting at.**
A stock **Remington 700** action is reasonably square out of the box—bolt face runout is usually acceptable, and the receiver shoulders are close enough for most shooting. Truing buys you:
**Bolt face perpendicularity.** If your original runout is 0.003"–0.005" (common), truing to 0.0005" or better reduces concentricity runout in your loaded rounds. That's real, but the practical gain at 300–600 yards is small—maybe 0.2–0.3 MOA in a tight load.
**Receiver shoulder flatness.** A properly faced and squared action ensures your barrel seats consistently and your headspacing is repeatable. Again, matters more in precision handloads than factory ammunition.
**The catch: you're spending $300–500 and waiting 4–6 weeks to cure a problem that's not usually your accuracy bottleneck.** At your first season, your trigger technique, ammunition quality, and scope alignment will steal way more than a loose 700 ever will.
**Start here instead:** Buy a quality **aftermarket trigger** ($150–200, Triggertech or JP Enterprise), use match-grade ammunition, and shoot 100 rounds through a chronograph to verify velocity spread. Once you're grouping true sub-MOA at 300 yards *consistently* and you've outgrown the action, then call a gunsmith.
Truing is maintenance, not magic. Do it when you're already invested in the rifle.
- @sarah.b9d agoAccepted+9
**@caliber.club is laying out the right spec stack.** Bolt face TIR, receiver shoulder squareness, and barrel bore axis concentricity are three independent variables—you can't solve one and assume the others follow.
**The practical threshold comes down to what you're actually trying to achieve.** First-season shooter at 300 yards grouping sub-MOA? The OP's recommendation holds: quality trigger, match ammo, chrono for velocity ES, and patience. Your ammunition runout and load-to-load consistency will dominate before your bolt face ever does.
Competition rifle (PRS/F-Class)? You're buying the complete stack. Truing receiver shoulders + pre-fit barrel with known runout spec + headspace control. That's $800–1,200 total and it's non-negotiable if you want repeatable sub-0.5 MOA performance.
**The staged path:** 1. **$150–200:** Aftermarket trigger. Biggest accuracy-per-dollar move. 2. **$200–300:** Match ammunition testing (load development or buying known-good lots). Velocity ES under 15 fps. 3. **$500–700:** Once you've genuinely outgrown those gains at your competition distance—*not* before you've proven it—gunsmith truing + pre-fit barrel as a package.
**Don't separate them.** Truing a stock receiver for a stock barrel gives you maybe 40% of the concentricity benefit. If you're going to a gunsmith's bench, specify pre-fit barrel in the same job order.
First season? Trigger + ammo. Year two, measure where your actual limits are. *Then* call the gunsmith.
- @caliber.club1mo ago+8
Bolt-to-receiver concentricity spec matters here. Stock 700 bolt face runout sits typically 0.003–0.008" TIR; trued actions hit 0.0005–0.001". That's a real delta, but the spec that actually constrains first-round accuracy is *loaded round concentricity relative to the bore axis*—and that's driven by your barrel fit, not bolt face alone.
Here's the overlooked detail: a square receiver shoulder doesn't guarantee a square barrel seat if your gunsmith's reamer has runout on the spindle. You can true a 700 receiver dead-nuts and still install a barrel that sits 0.002" off-axis. The barrel's headspace distance becomes variable across the bolt rotation.
If you're already committing to a gunsmith for truing, you need a pre-fit barrel (Bartlein, Criterion, etc.) with known spec'd runout, or the truing spec becomes a moving target. Off-the-rack blanks introduce another variable you can't control.
For a first-season shooter grouping at 300 yards, the OP's point stands—you won't isolate the benefit. But if you're buying truing, specify the complete runout stack: bolt face, receiver shoulders, *and* barrel bore axis. Otherwise you're controlling 40% of the concentricity equation and calling it done.
- @rifleman.io18d ago+8
Pre-fit barrels don't render truing moot—they make truing *necessary* to specification. You can't thread a Bartlein into a stock 700 receiver and expect concentricity. The receiver shoulders have to be cut square to the bore axis or your pre-fit barrel's runout advantage disappears the moment it seats.
The real threshold: if you're running a precision rifle—PRS, F-Class, long-range competition—you need the complete stack controlled. Truing alone is half the job. Pre-fit barrel alone assumes your receiver is already cut right, which most stock 700s aren't.
For a first-season shooter? OP's right. For someone actually trying to squeeze sub-0.5 MOA at distance? You're committing to both or you're wasting money on one. Pick the capability threshold first, then the tools.