Stop. Just buy a Glock 19.

Every single week someone posts about Shield vs. P365 vs. some new micro with a serialized dust cover. They're all solving a problem that doesn't exist.

You don't need micro. You need a gun that works. Glock 19 carries in everything—jeans, suit, appendix rig, waistband, ankle if you're desperate. It shoots straight. It runs every round ever made. You can field strip it in the dark and it'll still work in the morning.

Micro-compact guns are expensive compromises. Slower sight radius. Snappier recoil. Magazines that cost thirty bucks for seven rounds. You're paying more money for less gun because you convinced yourself you can't carry a full-size.

You can. Millions do.

Stop deliberating. Buy a Glock 19. Train with it. Carry it. Forget about it. That conversation is closed.

6 replies
  1. @southpaw_091d ago

    Honest take: the Glock 19 *works* for a lot of people, and it's a solid baseline. But body-type limits are real, and I've seen them trip up students more than once.

    I'm 5'10", 170, fairly athletic build. AIWB with a G19 and a quality holster? Totally manageable. I know a student—smaller frame, 5'4"—who tried it. Gun printed like neon under anything fitted. She's not less committed; her draw path and concealment window are just different. She runs a Shield now and actually carries it instead of leaving it at home.

    The micro market exists because some people genuinely can't hide a 4-inch barrel and 15-round stack without printing or losing draw speed. That's not weakness. That's geometry.

    Where I *do* agree with you: people overthink the Shield vs. P365 choice when either one will serve them fine if they train. The deliberation paralysis is real. But the answer isn't always "buy the bigger gun." It's "know your actual concealment constraints, test draws at your intended carry position, then pick the smallest gun that meets both those needs."

    Where's your counter on body variance? I'm curious if you've seen different frames work equal-well with the G19, or if you're assuming everyone's got comparable geometry to work with.

  2. Southpaw's right on the geometry piece, but I'm going to push back on the holster angle he didn't dig into—because that's where the real constraint lives.

    For AIWB with a G19, you need a holster that controls three things: trigger guard coverage, appendix ride height, and claw leverage. A quality AIWB rig—think T1C Axis, JM Custom Kydex, or Werkz—will run you $100–160. That's the floor. Cheaper rigs cut corners on the claw or wedge, and suddenly you're printing at the waistband or dealing with gun shift under movement.

    Here's the problem: not every frame takes a quality AIWB well, even if the gun itself is shootable. A smaller person carrying a G19 AIWB often has to run it higher (to avoid printing) or accept a longer draw stroke because the grip sits further from the body. That's geometry plus holster design colliding.

    Where the G19 wins: If you're 5'10" or taller, athletic build, and willing to spend on a purpose-built AIWB holster, the comfort and shootability are hard to beat. Appendix draw, magazine accessibility, and belt real estate work in your favor.

    Where a micro wins: For someone under 5'8" or with a smaller frame, a Shield or P365 in the same $120 AIWB holster rides cleaner, prints zero, and doesn't demand a bigger gun belt. The sacrifice in capacity is real. The sacrifice in *carrying consistently* is bigger.

    Both work. The holster matters more than either gun does.

  3. I appreciate both of you laying out the actual constraints, because I'm basically the person you're both describing and I ended up with a P365—though not for the reason the OP thinks.

    I'm 5'6", smaller hands, and I picked up a G19 at a rental range before I bought anything. Shot it fine. Liked it. But when I tried appendix carry at home with a decent holster, the grip sat so high on my frame that my draw was genuinely slower because I had to reach up instead of straight out. My instructor pointed it out—I wasn't imagining it.

    I tested the Shield and the P365 the same way. Both rode lower and my draw times dropped immediately. For me, that's not overthinking. That's the difference between carrying something and carrying something I'm confident drawing from under stress.

    What I *haven't* done is spent $160 on a custom AIWB holster yet. I'm still figuring out my preferred carry position—some days appendix feels right, some days 3 o'clock works better depending on what I'm wearing. So the cheaper holster floor matters to me right now.

    I get the OP's point that people deliberate endlessly. But the counter-point feels solid: the deliberation *should* include an actual draw test, not just "does it fit in my waistband." That's where I found my real answer.

  4. @nick.j13h ago

    I've been reading a lot about appendix carry being the default setup, and I get why—fast, accessible, repeatable. But I live in Minnesota and I'm coming from shotgun, so I'm probably missing something obvious here.

    Most of my year I'm wearing flannel or a heavier jacket. I've been thinking about strong-side OWB instead, which feels more natural given what I already know about gun handling. But everything I read assumes AIWB first, and I'm wondering if that's because OWB in winter actually changes the calculus on gun size in a way the OP and everyone else aren't accounting for.

    Here's my tension: if I'm wearing a jacket anyway, concealment stops being a print problem October through April. That means the G19 argument gets stronger for me—no geometry constraint, no holster cutting corners on a claw I don't need. But then the flip side: if I'm relying on the jacket, what happens in the summer when I switch carry positions? Do I need two different guns, or do I retrain the same gun in a different slot?

    I haven't tested this yet—still working through my setup—but it feels like the OP's "just buy a Glock 19" and everyone's "it depends on your frame" might both be missing a seasonal variable. Am I overthinking, or does carry position shift based on weather actually matter for the gun choice itself?

  5. @g19.gospel9h ago

    Nick, you're overthinking it. Buy a Glock 19.

    You wear a jacket October through April. Fine. Carry the G19 appendix or OWB—doesn't matter, the gun's the same. Summer comes, you switch the holster and carry position. Same gun. Train with it year-round in whatever position you're actually using that week. The gun doesn't change because the season changes.

    You came from shotgun. You know how to handle a gun. A Glock 19 in a jacket pocket holster works in winter. A Glock 19 in an AIWB rig works in summer. It's the same gun doing both jobs because it's reliable enough to do both jobs.

    Everyone in this thread is looking for permission to buy something else. Southpaw's student printed in a G19—buy a better holster and carry anyway, or carry something that works with the holster she has. Holster_notes measured his way into the right answer and then added fifty variables to justify buying a Shield. New shooter tested and found a P365 suited her draw. That's fine. But none of them needed a different gun for different seasons or different carry positions.

    You need one gun that works. Train with it. Carry it in the position that fits your clothes that day. Buy a Glock 19 and stop waiting for the perfect setup to exist. It won't.

  6. Here's what I'm reading: five posts about which $400–600 gun to buy, and nobody's asking why.

    You know what goes bang? A used police trade-in Glock 22 in .40 for $280. A Taurus G3c for $250. A used M&P for $200. All of them run. All of them shoot straight. All of them carry in a $40 holster from Amazon that works fine.

    Southpaw's student prints in a G19? Buy a $30 Uncle Mike's IWB and move on. Holster_notes is talking about $100–160 *holsters* like that's just the cost of entry—that's elitist math. New_shooter_questions is testing P365s at $400+ when a Taurus G3c does the same job for under $300. Nick's worried about seasonal carry positions with a $600 gun when the real answer is: buy one gun that works and stop rotating inventory.

    The OP's right about one thing: you don't need micro. You also don't need *any* of this. You need something that goes bang and stays in the fight. That's sub-$300 territory, and suddenly the geometry argument evaporates because you're not paying boutique money for a fit that "works better." Any gun beats no gun. A cheap gun that you actually *carry* because it didn't cost a car payment beats an expensive gun you left at home.

    Buy used. Train with it. Done. Everything else is boutique talk.